01/2014 - Liebe zur Erde... - Liebe zur Erde

Indonesia: Sea and Wind, Earth and Fire?

Here we spend - now again the two of us - a wonderfully peaceful time. On the Gili Islands off Lombok ( the neighboring island of Bali) is the word of the time "relax" - 11 days we are on Gili Meno and we can´t say what we did there else than actually look out on the sea.



Gili Meno is in the hectic and noisy Indonesia a small miracle: the island with its white sand beach can be surrounded in a 2 hours walk and has no traffic and no other means of transportation than horse-drawn carriages. At night, no barking dogs and the disco party noise from the neighboring island of Gili Tarawang (the locals call the  party island humorous Gili Trallala) penetrates the dark only as a distant rumbling through the palm groves. The white beach is full of pieces of coral from the reefs around there, where you are to see beautiful things, even if you are only snorkeling.




Most impressive are the large turtles that are nearly invisible on the sea floor or occasionally glide through the water.







Before us lies the volcano of Lombok , which is now in the rainy season usually shrouded in clouds. Some days, it rains almost continuously, then there are a few days of sun in a row. In general, however, we note that the large islands are more often in rain and clouds that rain down on the slopes, than is our little island in the sea.




Bali



we always see Bali only on the walkthrough, and Ubud seems to be our personal medical station - one of us at least is sick when we are here to stay for a day.




Bali is distinguished by its handicrafts, which seems to pervade the whole island. In addition, Bali is predominantly Hindu, and the whole tropical nature spirits and deities are still very much alive and are reflected in the art and sculptures: the whole island seems to be a single craft shop and temple. So, in an elementary way figures look out of every corner, every shop, every garden on you  - some remind to animal looking faces and I particularly marvel at the sculptures from the all black lava rock.







Above: monkey forest, Ubud




Two real highlights are Sulawesi and the Bromo volcano on Java, a sort of " Must see before you die" :



The northern tip of Sulawesi - which now in turn is predominantly Christian, houses on the north side the Bunaken National Park: one of the top 10 dive sites in the world. Since Andreas is diving, we make the trip here - and spend the time of our life here in the few days. Because you do not have to dive in order to experience the extremely impressive riffs world around here.




From my 3 Snorkeling tour ( the reef was virtually on the doorstep of our hotel, without strong currents and therefore relatively harmless, even if you are swimming alone) , I return with the phrase on the lips: If you are not religious - Here you will become so. The islands of the Bunaken National Park are in origin volcanic, with a base which breaks off abruptly and very steep, partly in one go down to 900 meters total, but it can also go down to 1800 m. Corals worlds formed at the base walls of the islands, which difficult find their equals elsewhere in the world and are home to an abundance of life forms, including around 3000 (!) Fish species. In addition, the unique perspective of 30 meters visible sight is under water, and simple snorkeling can be an experience. And yes - there are even manta rays, sharks, and who knows what else, but it's yet not a tourist been eaten ....













Java


A completely different world than a tropical paradise awaits us on Java, the main island of Indonesia and one of the most densely populated spots on earth. The volcanoes that line up like pearls on a string on the south coast, provide immensely fertile soil and not the earth itself, also the traffic is bursting everywhere out at the seams here. Java now in turn is Islamic - and Islam here has left not to much of neither of the tropical spirits nor from the creative beauty. The island is a business center, an economic engine: clean, loud, ugly. Only if one breaks in the more inaccessible areas, one discovers Java ( former) beauty: the magic of the rice terraces, the volcanoes in the background , which fog and cloud fields that draw up to great heights is a spectacle in the sky. Famous among many other volcanoes on Java is Bromo , to which the Tenegger Bromo National Park was created.




Its last eruption was in 2010/11 and today he delights the visitor with intense smoking and puffing . With all of the transport, which is possible suitable for the rip-off of tourists , one comes to below the crater rim and then has still independently climb a staircase up to the crater rim itself. In principle there  is a narrow path around the crater, you could walk around it so. Who has no difficultis with steepness and heights, and at the same time immune to the sulfur fumes ( sulfuric acid together with moisture in the lungs to breathe! ), can give the surrounding path a try. From the crater rim it goes steeply down until that opens up as a vertical mouth of the crater vent - a powerful sight !








Impressive to see are also the wonderful aesthetic terraced fields on the steep slopes: here bursts the fertility of the earth at the seams!





In the region there is also a recomended waterfall.


Again, this has also already become the tourist trap: who hires a supposedly necessary tour guide for 50 000 rp, is not only exposed to the fact that other vultures their way into the steep ravine to participate. They are pleased to sell minutes before one reach the waterfall, the own rain capes: because you have to go through the waterfall, which will soak you to the bones. No, when you return you will be aditionally rewarded with the news that the tour guide for the 80 minutes he joined us on the reported and partially paved road, charges 50 000 rp PER PERSON! - Well, we are used to these kind of cheating. Given the choice to get blankley nothing or keep the 50 000, he decided at the end when we left to the agreed amount .

 




Those traveling on Java should opt for the train: The seats in the business class are spacious and each has a socket so that you can also work. From out the train you can see the original village structures and agriculture , in the car / bus , however you drive hour after hour in heavy traffic and right and left unsightly concrete structures are around only, most small businesses .

Thus now my last days come which I spend in freedom, the journey is coming to an end. Still there is Java to traverse, then a stopover in Singapore. The end of January I will be back in Switzerland, Dornach - and then hopefully find the time to report on all the countries and impressions that have now come much too short. And as always after a long journey this time is also true : you can book us for picture- and storytelling evenings , and we are pleased to report our experiences!

With a golden Buddha from Myanmar through Thailand to Indonesia
a trip with adventurous character

Myanmar or Burma - an until recently in many ways closed and isolated country, goes through upside-down changes since the 2011 events: tourist numbers have tripled twice in the last two years 2012 and 2013 compared to the previous year and in the high season the rooms are now not only extremely scarce, but also adventurous expensive. Money changing used to be only possible on the black market at reasonable prices  - now there are ATMs in the big cities  - almost over is the time of the required absolutely new , ironed large dollar bills with special serial numbers, without which you did not come earlier in Myanmar on local cash . And so it happens that I, too decide spontaneous to visit the country: I want to see Bagan. The country in turn proves by its long isolation as very impressive, but also disconcerting - read more at a dedicated page of the website, when it is finished in the next months.




Above: the Buddha of Mahamuni temple, a sanctuary in Myanmar

In Myanmar, I am just the weeks before Christmas. Since I am going to meet with my partner at Christmas in Indonesia, my eyes are opened wider than usual for beautiful art, even though I 'm actually well equipped with gifts. But it hits me in the evening before my departure: hidden somewhere between the countless shops with gilded things around Mahamuny temple - where the golden Buddha is worshiped - I meet him: MY Buddha. And I do believe it is the same shop where others have not come unencumbered by: it is real art, which is produced there! In short: The Buddha must come with me, even though I realize that the transport will not be easy: the good piece is plated with gold, which the Irrawaddy leads with it and is then washed out by the people there. This in turn means that every X check will reveal the nature of my backpack.


Something about the situation in December 2013:

The Foreign Office in Germany doesn´t speak of any restriction of exports of religious objects from Myanmar / Burma. But the big inch panels in front of the X-ray check the next morning in Mandalay say something else: here the export of religious objects requires a written approval by a special authority. That, of course, I can´t provide anymore. Uncomfortable: what's right or wrong now?

Bigger is the problem, however, in Thailand: the country will be a 20 hours transit home to me. From here, I can definitely not export a Buddha, because all religious statues are believed to be spiritual beings and are therefore considered as sacred. It is generally advised to have things in doubt declared upon entry and treat the Buddha in transport respectful. The result is at the willpower of the officials.


Worried hours:

The contingent of officials at the radiation baggage check at the airport in Mandalay is scary. And I have so much stuff with me (currently I travel with about 45-50 kg ) that I can´t run quickly through and away . So I must take all the time in the world to nurse money belt, cell phone, hair belt, belt and everything else which is beeping equipment at the body check, back into place on me. The officials see on the screen what I have, pointing on it - they look at me, but they do not stop me. First hurdle done. Thailand will hopefully not send my little Buddha back to Myanmar when I'm with it at customs ...

When I arrive in Bangkok I take the Buddha out from the backpack, wrap it in nicely again in garment and place him on top of the baggage car. That way I go looking for the red customs area, where a whole group of people is standing but nobody wants to check me - they want to wave me through. Oh no, I think, where can I bring tomorrow morning at 4.30 the proof that the Buddha came with me from Myanmar? So I stop and start to speak with the officers and explain the problem. Now they become curious - and careful. Official language regime is that an export license can be granted in case of a single Buddha per person which one person can easily carry. The officials recognize therefore quickly that my over 30 cm high piece must be of wood. 6-8 people standing around me, looking at the unwrapped Buddha and discuss the matter. Then one hurries me further into a hidden corner to an other official who checks again also more accurate. At the end is clear: the Buddha may come with me (but may be also, because I 'm only as a transit through Thailand?) And the statue can get out tomorrow, too. In order to confirm the process the little Buddha, who is a Christmas present for my partner, recieves a customs seal on his arm.

The next morning I let the Buddha at the baggage check in Bangkok in a backpack and not initially report it also . The seal is attached to the arm that is not gold-plated, and therefore visible in the X-ray machine. Anyway, I am not stopped - at least not because of the Buddha. For the next flights and days all inspectors are suddenly of the opinion that I transport " food" in my laptop case: however, they look for it in vain ...

Now the Buddha is with us, could come with me this morning to the coral beach and pleased us very much. On the flight home my partner goes over Islamic countries, wich will certainly transport Buddhas with no problems. Nevertheless, we leave the customs seal from Thailand off as a precaution - who knows what else is coming ....